“Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing. To do a dull thing with style is preferable to doing a dangerous thing without it. To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.”
– Charles Bukowski
For the fall/winter 2013 collections, the Milanese and Parisian men’s fashion houses did not disappoint. Both countries showed bold, strong collections. I am loving the newer silhouettes; a softer, easier way of dressing with distinct tailoring and seam-work detailing that was second to none. From Gucci’s stunning coats and jackets, to Bottega Veneta’s mustard car coat, to the slimmer styles from Saint Laurent, it was all pleasant surprises.
I start my journey with a trip to Milan, where I chose to review 4 collections, three hits, and one ill-fated miss.
At Gucci, Frida Giannini showed an outstanding collection. From the first exit – a sky blue double-breasted Chesterfield coat, paired with a grey turtle neck and ivory pant, to the very last exit, she brought the house down. These are my 3 favorite looks from the show.
Miuccia Prada’s collection seemed to be inspired by Elvis Costello, bringing in hints of the 50s and the early 90s hipster. I would personally wear every piece in this collection. Thank you again Miuccia, never a disappointment.
I highly recommend watching the entire runway show.
Video courtesy Fashion TV
Here are two looks that stood out for me…
Tomas Maier showed a masterful collection that had such uniformity, and was tailored to a fault. Each of the monochromatic looks were chart toppers, with the muted colors thrown in the mix, every exit was perfection.
Now for the unfortunate and unexplainable collection from Versace. If I have one positive thing to say it’s that Donatella defiantly marches to the beat of her own drum. I was left dazed by the oversized checked suiting, and confused by the sheer lace ‘lingerie’ pieces for men. The most shocking exit was the MC Hammer’esque red leather pleated pant with black leather motor cycle jacket. I’m at a loss for words (and anyone who knows me well understands it takes a lot to make that happen.)
Now we travel to Paris. After reviewing all of the amazing collections, I choose 4 to highlight.
Studio and Style director Kim Jones took us on a Himalayan journey by opening the pages of National Geographic for this collection. From the snow leopard print coats and whimsical knit wear, to the over-sized cocoon shaped alpaca toggle coats, nothing disappointed. The Jacquard printed tuxedo jacket and pant was my favorite look.
The accessories were perfect for world travel – from over-sized rectangular backpacks, to the brilliantly colored carpet bags.
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo showed a very youthful collection – almost on the verge of ridiculous – yet brilliant and fabulous. Some of the pieces alone are outstanding, and as always the knitwear and jackets are to be celebrated. For me, this collection was a whimsical nod to the winter Easter bunny apres ski in Stadt.
I recently saw something on the internet which said “It ain’t Saint Laurent without the Yves.” I believe this to be true. But I am now, and have been for some time, a fan of Hedi Slimane, most especially for his first collection at Yves Saint Laurent, more than a decade ago.
For his debut collection at the newly named Saint Laurent he showed a very wide range of styles on the runway, all with indie rocker flare and Steven Tyler’esque looks. He took the skinny rocker boy to the next level, despite that all the other designers were showing a more easy style of dressing. For Slimane it was all about the SKINNY.
And finally Lanvin, a collaboration of designer Alber Elbaz and creative director Lucas Ossendrijver. This collection had everything to offer, from the new eased and relaxed styles, to the slimmer fitting pieces, they all satisfy. I’m loving the functional overcoats and jackets as well as the oversized suits.
It is a very new, easy way for the ‘real Lanvin boy’ (those are Lanvin’s words, not mine) to dress.
So to sum things up (even with the misses that I’ve reviewed), I keep an open mind in the ever-changing world of fashion. It’s always about looking forward and opening your mind to the new, and the things we are not used to – no matter how ridiculous they seems. It’s still fashion.
What’s your favorite (and least favorite) piece in my review?
Written by Anthony Costa