Reviewing the London collections has always been a treat for me. Back in my days as a buyer I could not wait to go to London for fashion week.
The British designers excel in innovative design – and creating new wearable art, and are always at the forefront of new directions in fashion.
For this posting I focus on what I think are the top six collections shown this past week: WEARABLE garments that sparks conversation, not for being ridiculous, but because the clothes are totally original and beautifully crafted.
In reviewing the collections from this past week, I’ve come up with what I consider to be the top 5 houses, and one totally misguided effort. This was a season that had no one direction – each designer that excelled had their own distinct vision. The two prevalent ideas on the runway that I came away with were that dressing had a little more ease to it, and that bold colors were often combined in most unusual ways. In the end, it all seemed to make sense.
Loosely translated, ‘Las Estrellas En Ascenso’ means ‘The Rising Stars’. Last week I sat down with one of those stars, my good friend Jim Villa, to discuss his representation of who I am predicting will be the BREAKOUT STAR of the New York Fall/Winter 2013 runway shows this week.
‘Haute Couture’ in the English translation of the French, means ‘high sewing’, ‘high dressmaking’, or ‘high fashion’.
To be a part of the Paris Haute Couture shows is an honor. It is bestowed on only a few designers each year by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. They select only the very best to show during Couture fashion week. This year 16 houses were chosen.
For Spring 2013 Couture I’ve chosen to review 5 amazing collections, and one that was unfortunately misguided. If you read my review of the Men’s Fall/Winter 2013 shows last week you will not be surprised with the design house I am once again disappointed by.
“Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing. To do a dull thing with style is preferable to doing a dangerous thing without it. To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.”
– Charles Bukowski
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For the fall/winter 2013 collections, the Milanese and Parisian men’s fashion houses did not disappoint. Both countries showed bold, strong collections. I am loving the newer silhouettes; a softer, easier way of dressing with distinct tailoring and seam-work detailing that was second to none. From Gucci’s stunning coats and jackets, to Bottega Veneta’s mustard car coat, to the slimmer styles from Saint Laurent, it was all pleasant surprises.
I start my journey with a trip to Milan, where I chose to review 4 collections, three hits, and one ill-fated miss.
“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman”
-Coco Chanel
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Christie Brinkley is a supermodel, spokeswoman, actress, Broadway star and entrepreneur. Her skincare line, Christie Brinkley Skincare has proven to be wildly popular. As one of the most recognizable faces in the world, we have all grown to love her beauty, and her iconic style. I can personally say that I’m a very big fan.
Her working relationship and friendship with famed stylist Wayne Scot Lukas is one for the record books. In this day and age of the ‘celebrity stylist’ we see them come and go. Stars seem to work with their stylists for no more than a few years, and then it’s on to the next. But Brinkley and Lukas have been working together for over 20 yrs.
Earlier this month ‘Fashion and Technology’ opened at the FIT Museum on 7th Avenue at 27th Street in NYC. The exhibit explores the impact of emerging technologies on the nature of fashion design and production over the past 250 years; focusing on innovations that have influenced the materials, aesthetic, and function of fashion.
When I think ofBalenciaga, I think of two people.Cristóbal Balenciaga, a fellow Spaniard and the founder of the fashion house, and Nicolas Ghesquière, the designer who reinvented the house in 1997 at the young age of 25.
Last month Ghesquière announced his departure after 15 years as Creative Director, and Alexander Wang was chosen as his successor. They say that success is never final, but failure can be – which sums up anyone’s career in fashion. You’re only as only good as your last show. So it’s with bated breath that I’m anticipating Wang’s first collection for Balenciaga. Will he triumph or fail in his new position?
It’s a new era, and I for one am expecting this luxury label to continue its success. But first, let’s take a look at Balenciaga’s revolutionary style.
Mary Katrantzou
