‘High Sewing’

The Paris Haute Couture Spring 2013 Review

Louvre Classique…………………………

‘Haute Couture’ in the English translation of the French, means ‘high sewing’, ‘high dressmaking’, or ‘high fashion’. 

To be a part of the Paris Haute Couture shows is an honor.  It is bestowed on only a few designers each year by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.  They select only the very best to show during Couture fashion week.  This year 16 houses were chosen.

For Spring 2013 Couture I’ve chosen to review 5 amazing collections, and one that was unfortunately misguided.   If you read my review of the Men’s Fall/Winter 2013 shows last week you will not be surprised with the design house I am once again disappointed by.

The thing that I love most about seeing the Couture shows is that we never see any single direction, it’s each designer creating with heart and soul, and their own amazing vision.  The color choices and silhouettes we see on these runways will influence designers across the globe for ready-to-wear  collections in coming seasons.

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Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille1This brilliant collection showed off Mabille’s technical and structural abilities as a master designer – from the separate evening pieces to the wondrous ball gowns.

This look features pale-pink colored lace and appliqué on a pleated full length gown with net accent sleeve and peplum.

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Alexis Mabille2A blush colored lace and tulle belted ‘tutu peplum’ over a light rose-colored silk slim pant.

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Chanel

Chanel1Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into a forest for his collection; perfect for his woodland nymph-esque creations.  His shimmering classic tweed suitings and coat dresses were outstanding, and as always the dresses and gowns were sheer lace-and-feathered perfection.

This ice colored, classic tweed faux portrait collared and framed shoulder coat dress was shown with over the knee lace open toe boots.

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Chanel2These white-feathered and laced organza bridal gowns feature a mid-length sleeve and bodice bordered with a chevron trim.

You can view the entire Chanel Haute Couture show via Bayoucool here;

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Christian Dior

Dior1With this, his second season for Dior, designer Raf Simons shows us that he not only understands the Dior legacy, he interprets it masterfully in a union of his personal style and the house’s legendary silhouettes.  This collection was for me the ultimate Garden Party.

This Canary yellow strapless bubble skirt has a secondary suspended skirt held to it with an invisible tulle.

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Dior2This Petal-Pink Jacquard molded ball gown was shown with a netted fencing bonnet that was accented with floating petals.

You can watch the entire Christian Dior Haute Couture show courtesy of Bayoucool here;

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Giambattista Valli

Giambaptisa1Giambattista Valli’s collection was both feminine and sleekly modern.  He chose molded shapes, paired with graphic prints, and sheer black fabrications trimmed with gold bow details.   All exquisite.

This coat dress featured an exaggerated padded hip in an abstract animal print.

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GV2A graphic animal print silk mousseline dress, over cropped silk pants in the same print

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Elie Saab

Elie SaabElie Saab, the master of appliqué, embroidered lace, and beadwork, was at his finest with this season’s collection.  Every one of his exits was pure excellence.  His pure color choices – from the ethereal to the strong, and his use of architectural prints over-layed with floral motifs were all bewitching.  I’m sure we will be seeing at least 3 or 4 of these gowns at the Oscars on Sunday, February 24th.

 This pearlized, ice taupe beaded and embroidered jewel neckline ball gown, with 3/4 sleeves is one of my favorite looks from the season.

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Elie Saab2This powder blue, knee-length cocktail dress with beaded lace has a graceful tiered silhouette.

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Atelier Versace

VersaceAnd last but not least, the unfortunate collection from Atelier Versace.  Again, I am left speechless.  I can only think of a humorous critique for this collection.  This is rural American Barbie gone wild in a baby-doll mullet dress.  Need I say more.

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I asked an acquaintance Ralph Rucci, himself an American Couturier, for his thoughts on what Couture means to him.

julianna-margulies-black-white-dress-2013-sag-awards-1Julianna Margulies in Ralph Rucci at the Sag Awards 2013

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“Couture is quite simply the union of a designer and an atelier – where art, technique, and dreams becomes reality.   All participate in the same motion, so that breath and life is given to the collection – which in it’s essence arises from the designer’s soul’

I couldn’t agree with him more.

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Special thank to my good friend Elizabeth Fillmore of Elizabeth Fillmore Bridal for her insights into the fabrications and silhouettes, and to Ralph Rucci for providing such an insightful quote.

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Written by Anthony Costa

 

 

16 thoughts on “‘High Sewing’”

    1. Thank you so much…. I write an article every Saturday….. Thanks for your support .. Watch. For my new post this Saturday

    1. Thanks so much… I’m glad you like….I appreciate your support… Come back this Saturday for another story… !!

    1. Thanks Jim… I appreciate all comments.. And your support….perhaps we could meet next time Im in NYC..I’ve always been of fan of Raf Simons…

    1. There’s my girl.. I can always count on your support… How bout that Versace crap….lol
      See ya later…xxxOooo

  1. I loved your overview, Anthony! I agree with Dee’s comment; Elie Saab was by far my favorite. Keep up the interesting articles!

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