Across The Pond

a review of the London Fall/Winter 2013 runway shows

Mary-Katrantzou1Mary Katrantzou

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Reviewing the London collections has always been a treat for me.  Back in my days as a buyer I could not wait to go to London for fashion week.

The British designers excel in innovative design – and creating new wearable art, and are always at the forefront of new directions in fashion.

For this posting I focus on what I think are the top six collections shown this past week:  WEARABLE garments that sparks conversation, not for being ridiculous, but because the clothes are totally original and beautifully crafted.

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“The pomp and circumstance that is London Fashion Week had all the more pull this season – drawing record crowds of attendees (including large Russian, Italian and American contingents) thanks in part to the ‘Big Guns’ such as Burberry, and the newly minted LFW designers Tom Ford, and L’Wren Scott.” 

-Ian Michael Turner, fashion editor at Chasseur

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Tom Ford

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Tom Ford2Tom Ford is a creative genius. This collection is proof (not that we need any) that he is not only a master craftsman, but that he is also a dramatic showman, a visionary, and an artist.  He offered up multi-cultural chic garments.  Everything from the black leather fringe pieces, to the sheer gowns with colorful sequins starbursts were sensational.   Every exit was Dy-No-Mite!

 Tom Ford 3

“As an American Fashion Pioneer, Mr. Ford’s Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 collection is a reflection of his cross-cultural, and multi time-line influences.  His use of bold, bright colors is a celebration of his newly found joy as a parent.  His Art is a reflection of his Life . His life is his Art.”

-Debra Anderson Of Tom Ford

Tom Ford 3…………………………

 

Burberry Prorsum

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Burberry1Just when I thought Burberry couldn’t do anything else with the trench coat, they create something extra special.  Christopher Bailey does not disappoint with his new take on the trench by piecing together the classic coat from sheer latex.  Other standouts with a modern edge were the jackets, pants, and dresses – with belts, epaulets, collars, and pockets all trimmed with gold metal.

Burberry2The entire Burberry show was sensational, treat yourself to the video;

Burberry3…………………………

Antonio Berardi

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Antonio Berardi1Beradi’s collection this season seemed to be focused on architectural shape and design, while staying true to the his past: a simple, plain, and always sexy aesthetic.  The wool day dresses  and suitings were beautifully detailed and embellished, but the evening pieces were the main event for me.

Antonio Berardi2Antonio Berardi3…………………………

Mulberry

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Mulberry1Emma Hill, the creative director of Mulberry, showed a new affection for design in this collection, parting ways with her usually happy silhouettes.  The oversized knitwear, sleeves and enlarged checks were distinctive in this characteristically dark collection.

My favorite look was the navy leather capelet trench, navy turtle neck, navy wool cropped pants and navy leather gloves.

Mulberry2Mulberry3…………………………

Christopher Kane

 

Christopher Kane1 Kane served up an extremely fashion forward collection.  He references his archives with some shapes and the use of camouflage, but all with a brand new twist.

His color palate was simple greys, blues, and a rich burgundy that all came together in this cohesive collection.  I choose my 3 favorite looks to share with you – all original, and tastefully designed.  A navy velvet cut-out top with extended sleeves, a crocheted burgundy stunner of a mini dress, and an over-sized camouflage wrap coat with leather buckle.

Christopher Kane2Christopher Kane3

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Mary Katrantzou

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Mary KatrantzouThis collection was superbly fantastic.  It was apparent that Katrantzou took her inspiration from obi-like Japanese dressing, but added newer origami’esque folds.   She created black and white photo prints, and hand painted fabrics for each of her new designs.

I totally get her direction.  I was remarkably inspired by her work.  The clothes, for me, are museum worthy.

Mary Katrantzou3…………………………

I’d like to thank Ian Michael Turner and Debra Anderson for their time and consideration.  Next week it’s a wrap-up the Fall/Winter 2013 Women’s collections from Milan.  Stay tuned.

 

 Written by Anthony Costa

 

 

 

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